Reimagining Six Sided Purple
An Amethyst…hexagon…very large… a vibrant purple… reimagined.
From the direction of a stylist to the vision of a designer, to the knowledge of a gemmologist, to the finesse of a jeweller…
The time has come for this piece from the past… the beginning of something new…different but similar. Shedding the amethyst from its former mount, the jeweller gently removes the beautiful stone from its claws of a now unwearable brooch, destined to become a spectacular pendant to be worn and enjoyed. As pencil touches paper the design flourishes, classic with elegance and always wearable without restrictions. From the skill of our master jeweller, his hands and tools begin working the metal, layer on layer crafting an heirloom piece to last. As he gently pushes the claws over the amethyst and brightens with a final polish… a beautiful pendant emerges.
Let me just pause from this dreamy romantic moment and take you back to the beginning of reimagining purple through the eyes and knowledge of our gemmologist and master jeweller…. Rob.
As I reflect back on my first encounter with the stone I am captivated by its beauty…. studying the manifest I am looking at a very large mid purple six sided shape, a 25mm diameter hexagon. As my hands glide over the surface, I feel a cool sensation, suggesting crystalline material with crisp cut edges as opposed to moulded faceting.
Upon closer examination using a 10 x loupe, “zebra stripes” and colour zoning are clearly visible. A refractive index reading of 1.545 confirms we have a natural amethyst!
With the gemmology diagnostic complete, identifying material properties and value… the gemstone is removed from its current saddle and I feel an uncanny immediate connection with the material and an excitement for the exploration of its latent content.
As design flows through a collaborative approach with our jewellery stylist and client, we embrace a classical design, working with just two symmetrical under rails and multiple claws for texture and stability, fixed to our signature bail.
The bearing rail, immediately below the girdle, shadows each of the six sides so they rest precisely, paramount for the future setting. The smaller lower rail provides space to the design, secured via four claws initially, positioned just below the culet to prevent the piece pivoting during exhibition. Our signature bail is fitted on the same plane as the lower rail, fixed solid to balance the large form for best performance.
Assemblage complete…
The final preparation for the amethyst involves a flurry of shaving, burnishing and polishing the hexagonal skeletal form in much the same way a worker bee attends the hive. An appropriate analogy given this fundamental shape is prevalent in nature due to its efficiency in terms of space and materials. Concurrently equilateral and equiangular, a perfect compromise between circularity and angularity. Symbolism, the ideas and concepts, mood and emotion is a deeper conversation for another time…
Finally, the spectacular stone is set… bracing with a wax mould to enable lateral pressure on the claws during setting. It can be tedious to remove when finished but is necessary for precise control. Each claw is marked and rebated for folding.
It’s another one of those euphoric moments as each of the twelve claws is encouraged onto the girdle and crown facet.
A final polish is the sign off from the artisan, confirming departure from the workshop but signalling the much-anticipated arrival to our creative, adept at styling.
Now embark on a voyage of discovery from classic to creative. Looks that can be worn to the most casual of occasions to the most formal of events. So here are just a few to get you curious…
A new adornment reimagined for individual aesthetic, ready to be styled and most importantly ready to be worn, not just sometimes but often.
As I hold the piece in my hand I begin to connect, admiring the simple yet intricate design, noticing how the twelve yellow gold claws not only hold the stone but add the important details that are needed in design to create a feminine yet timeless piece. Ideas of styling with this pendant to create fabulous looks now simply flow. The stone is a lovely shade of purple though slightly muted, making it neither warm nor cool but simultaneously warm and cool. A creative colour, a colour with many meanings from peace, luxury, ambition to creativity.
Gently dangling from a gold cable gives the pendant an elegant and classic style. A stylist tip…When a pendant is larger be cautious with the length, remember where the pendant finishes is where the eye stops, so if it’s too short it will shorten your neck length and silhouette.
Slip on a minimal top with a wardrobe staple pant or skirt to keep it classic, layer to enhance with a well cut jacket, think colour and make it bright. As the pendant is structured select a jacket made of a fabric that flows such as a silk blend, structured in cut.
By threading the pendant onto a longer chain or even layering it up with a couple of chains, perhaps in multiple hues is where the creativity begins. As well as adding a touch of uniqueness to your look, the longer chains work as an illusion to elongate the silhouette, which is always an advantage.
Think for this look a high-waisted pant or skirt in a block colour or floral with a cosy loose fitting knit, a pair of ankle boots or maybe an oh-so-now sneaker for extra comfort. Don’t forget to layer on a timeless trench coat before you leave the house. Still classically elegant while creative just with a casual feel and a touch of Audrey Hepburn.
An option for this piece as we dare to get more and more creative and one of my favourite looks… A kimono with intricate detail worn belted or loose over a slip dress and heels that wrap around the ankle and continue up the leg. Drop the pendant from a cable because this is where it needs to be, to be the hero of this look. Grab a sparkling sequin clutch, tousle your hair into a messy bun and there you have it….style perfection with creativity, colour and one amazing jewel…hexagon…purple and very large but perfect to complete.
Contact us and experience the extraordinary collaborative process of reimagining your jewels for YOUR individual aesthetic to wear on rotation.
The Remodelling Revolution
We are back with another intriguing interview with none-other than Rob UMUN Jewellery Studio’s master jeweller and Clarisse Forge Chiffon’s jewellery stylist.
Rob and Clarisse, there has been much discussion about UMUN sparking a REMODELLING REVOLUTION! Your innovative approach, the unique pieces you reimagine in collaboration with each other!
So as we are all filled with an acute case of curiosity we would love to gain an insight into all this excitement!
Could you firstly explain what exactly is a remodel?
In jewellery terms it is changing the structure or form of a piece but this could be as simple as inverting, adding a ring and threading onto a gemstone necklace...........”Voila!”
Which kind of jewellery are you able to remodel?
Only fine jewellery or can costume jewellery also be remodelled?
Costume jewellery is typically made of base metals and synthetic gemstones which do not withstand the processes of fine jewellery manufacture. Really best to stick with fine jewellery as there is usually a significant value in the materials, making it a worthwhile investment.
Are you only able to remodel one piece at a time?
We always like to see all the pieces in question so we can consider the whole design project. Often the most underrated pieces can surprisingly be the magical ingredients.
What about broken jewellery?
Yes, it’s a good idea to bring broken pieces. We can often use part of a chain or a solitary earring to create something wonderful.
Can I add new materials to the remodel?
Certainly, we encourage that. This is the perfect way to bring it into your aesthetic.
What if I were to remodel a piece of jewellery with a damaged gemstone but I would like to keep the gemstone in the piece?
In this case we have a couple of colleagues who are fantastic gem cutters. About the only skill we don’t have in house. We would ask for their advice on how best we can bring your stone back to its former glory.
Okay so now we have a jeweller’s insight into the key principles of jewellery remodelling, I would like to dive a little deeper and discuss your innovative approach to remodelling.
As you have mentioned anything is possible, with all fine jewellery having the ability to be remodelled...
What is your approach to remodelling loved jewellery that has great sentimental value, however is never worn as it does not fit the individual’s personal style?
Firstly we look at how we can adjust the jewellery to simply bring it into our clients aesthetic if possible, often this can be done by changing the chain or even the length of the chain for example. If this is not enough we would then consider using the material and making a completely new piece.
How do you retain the sentiment contained within a family heirloom?
If we are using the material to remake the piece completely we often take our inspiration from its past keepers as well as the design of the original piece.
If we are altering the piece our approach is the least invasive. We deconstruct only what is absolutely necessary and try to keep things together as much possible. For example, if we are changing a brooch into a pendant, we will only remove the rivet and pin but retain the hinge and catch so that one day in the future if the new keeper of this piece would like to wear it as a brooch it can be easily changed back.
How would you approach a remodel if the individual had a collection of jewels but couldn’t envisage how or when they would wear them or was unsure of their personal style?
Easy, lets make an appointment with Forge Chiffon and work through it. Just allow 30mins.
And lastly where would someone begin to have something remodelled?
Give us a call or send an email and let’s make an appointment.
To that appointment bring in your bag of jewels that you’re considering remodelling and any ideas you might have.
We will sort through them with you, giving you lots of advice along the way, talk about your personal aesthetic and share some new concepts with you.