The Remodelling Revolution

We are back with another intriguing interview with none-other than Rob UMUN Jewellery Studio’s master jeweller and Clarisse Forge Chiffon’s jewellery stylist.

Rob and Clarisse, there has been much discussion about UMUN sparking a REMODELLING REVOLUTION! Your innovative approach, the unique pieces you reimagine in collaboration with each other!

So as we are all filled with an acute case of curiosity we would love to gain an insight into all this excitement!

Could you firstly explain what exactly is a remodel?

In jewellery terms it is changing the structure or form of a piece but this could be as simple as inverting, adding a ring and threading onto a gemstone necklace...........”Voila!”

Which kind of jewellery are you able to remodel?

Only fine jewellery or can costume jewellery also be remodelled?

Costume jewellery is typically made of base metals and synthetic gemstones which do not withstand the processes of fine jewellery manufacture. Really best to stick with fine jewellery as there is usually a significant value in the materials, making it a worthwhile investment.

Are you only able to remodel one piece at a time?

We always like to see all the pieces in question so we can consider the whole design project. Often the most underrated pieces can surprisingly be the magical ingredients.

What about broken jewellery?

Yes, it’s a good idea to bring broken pieces. We can often use part of a chain or a solitary earring to create something wonderful.

Can I add new materials to the remodel?

Certainly, we encourage that. This is the perfect way to bring it into your aesthetic.

What if I were to remodel a piece of jewellery with a damaged gemstone but I would like to keep the gemstone in the piece?

In this case we have a couple of colleagues who are fantastic gem cutters. About the only skill we don’t have in house. We would ask for their advice on how best we can bring your stone back to its former glory.

Okay so now we have a jeweller’s insight into the key principles of jewellery remodelling, I would like to dive a little deeper and discuss your innovative approach to remodelling.

As you have mentioned anything is possible, with all fine jewellery having the ability to be remodelled...

What is your approach to remodelling loved jewellery that has great sentimental value, however is never worn as it does not fit the individual’s personal style?

Firstly we look at how we can adjust the jewellery to simply bring it into our clients aesthetic if possible, often this can be done by changing the chain or even the length of the chain for example. If this is not enough we would then consider using the material and making a completely new piece.

How do you retain the sentiment contained within a family heirloom?

If we are using the material to remake the piece completely we often take our inspiration from its past keepers as well as the design of the original piece.

If we are altering the piece our approach is the least invasive. We deconstruct only what is absolutely necessary and try to keep things together as much possible. For example, if we are changing a brooch into a pendant, we will only remove the rivet and pin but retain the hinge and catch so that one day in the future if the new keeper of this piece would like to wear it as a brooch it can be easily changed back.

How would you approach a remodel if the individual had a collection of jewels but couldn’t envisage how or when they would wear them or was unsure of their personal style?

Easy, lets make an appointment with Forge Chiffon and work through it. Just allow 30mins.

And lastly where would someone begin to have something remodelled?

Give us a call or send an email and let’s make an appointment.
To that appointment bring in your bag of jewels that you’re considering remodelling and any ideas you might have.

We will sort through them with you, giving you lots of advice along the way, talk about your personal aesthetic and share some new concepts with you.

Stone to Style...Parti Sapphires

Today we are sitting down with Rob, UMUN Jewellery Studio’s resident gemmologist and Clarisse, Forge Chiffon’s jewellery stylist, to explore the ever-so-fascinating world of sapphires. 

Rob and Clarisse, we have previously chatted about classic blue sapphires, but today I am interested in an extraordinary type of sapphire… the parti sapphire. 

So let’s begin with the stone…

What is a parti sapphire and where are they mined?

A parti sapphire is a unique gemstone, perfect for those looking for something highly individual. It’s a sapphire that has two or three colours present within the one stone ie. partially coloured. Usually blue, green and yellow due to traces of iron and titanium oxide. Each one totally unique, just like a finger print. Parti sapphires are mainly mined in Australia, However they can also be found in Nigeria, Madagascar and Tanzania.

Which array of colours do they come in?

Usually blue, green and yellow. We also see brownish shades and golden tones.

Are parti sapphires natural or lab produced?

Natural, they are impossible to replicate via lab procedures.

How are they graded and what is their hardness?

Parti sapphires are graded like all other sapphires in terms of carat, cut and clarity, but it is the colour that sets them apart. 

All sapphires are part of the corundum family, rating 9 on the Mohs Scale of Hardness, second to diamonds…so a hard gemstone and suitable for everyday wear.

Which cut best showcases the colour?

When selecting a parti sapphire you should choose it on its unique colour pattern rather than shape. 

A parti sapphire needs to be cut by a experienced cutter who knows how to get the best out of the stone. 

With their unusual colour zones, the gem cutter needs to be able to enhance the colours rather than worry about the carat weight so often we see them in unusual cuts compared to more typical sapphires.

Now onto style….

Which complexions would a parti sapphire best enhance and which metal would you set them in?

There are parti sapphires to suit every complexion. 

They can be set in white, rose and yellow metal. Each stone has its own unique colour way so best to consider each one individually.

Which personal aesthetic do they suit and are there any particular colours you would suggest styling them with?

They are a great stone for nature lovers and individuals who like to be unique.

Muted hues and any natural hue will look the best.

With this said, which piece of jewellery would you set a parti sapphire in?

Because the parti sapphire is a hard gemstone, it’s very wearable for rings, earrings, pendants and bracelets.

I think a ring would be a great choice either dress ring or engagement ring. It’s also a great gemstone for the men!

From a style perspective would you suggest a solitaire setting or multi-stone setting for a parti sapphire?

Most of the time I would suggest a solitaire given that each stone is unique in its own right. Making them more challenging to mix together. However, if you are looking for something out of this world and you have the time to wait for the right stones to be found they can look truly amazing set together.

Also parti sapphires look great with pearls.

 And lastly to wrap up today’s interview… I am now loving parti sapphires and would like to get something made! Where do I begin?

Book in an appointment, try to make it at around 2pm….this is the best time to view sapphires and let me show you the magic that these beautiful, unique gemstones hold.